Mostarda is not mustard. It is not sweet or acidic, not salty or spicy—at least, it’s none of those things alone. It is made mostly of fruit, but is neither jelly nor jam nor dessert. It is closest, maybe, to a relish … but what a relish! It’s confident stuff, best served with meats—its traditional counterpart are meats or cheeses that can take its sharpness. I ate my first bites of persimmon mostarda at Natural Selection. I’ll never forget its delicious bite. It’s a condiment that makes a meal.

8 oz. dried apricots
4 oz. dried cherries
1½ cups sugar
5 tbsp. Stone ground mustard
2 tbsp. canola oil
¼ tsp. cayenne
4 green apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and cut into ½” cubes
3 bay leaves
Kosher salt, to taste

Bring all ingredients and 3 cups water to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until apricots and cherries are plumped, apples are tender, and liquid is reduced, by half (about 40 minutes). Pulse in a food processor, then chill.


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